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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.